Monday 13th October. A day of rest in Santiago watching the rain come down, getting a haircut and washing clothes. Planning for the second walk and hoping for some dry weather.
Monday, 13 October 2014
O'Pedrouzo to Santiago
Sunday 12th October People were getting up at 0530 so I eventually gave up and joined the the masses walking in the dark at 0715. It was not long before the drizzle settled in, however the smell of wet eucalyptus trees was nice. There were bus loads of tourists at Monte de Gozo overlooking santiago. A fast walk as I made the 20kms in under 4 hrs arriving at 1030. The pilgrim mass was packed seatting for approx 400 and it was wall to wall standing everywhere, even the number of visiting priests crowded the altar, must be the only church which can hold mass 7 days a week probably for 9 months of the year and have a packed house. The botafumiera swung to please the crowds, but I preferred the nun singing today compared to the choir yesterday. Saturday was Christobal Colon (Christopher Colombus) day hence a bit more of a carryon yesterday. I had diner with the scandinavian ladies and then watched a local group of troubadours perform in front of the catedral before a relatively late night.
Saturday, 11 October 2014
Ribadiso to O' Pedrouzo
Saturday 11th October, 0830 head out into the fog, a cool moening with great views over the misty countryside. Today is the day foe walkng through eucalypt forests with the smell of home in the air. A lot of pilgrims on the way including several large groups on organised tours. The feet are hurting so I decide on a short day of only 23kms and stop at O'Pedrouzo which has a large purpose built albergue, but the town has nothing of interest except the church which is closed of course. Bulk up on a bit more food today as I seem to be very hungry. Tomorrow the walk into Santiago, evidently it is a special national day for something.
Ferreira to Ribadiso
Friday 10th October, head off into the misty morning, sunrise now not until 0900 hrs. Once again ascend above the tree line, the sun pokes through the clouds and raises the humidity, now I can see Melide about 12kms in the distance as I head down into the valley. Melide is the Primitivo joins with the Camino Frances, so suddenly there are peregrinos everywhere. A 35km day as I reach Ribadiso an original old pilgrim hospital on the camino now refurbished. It has beautiful old stone buildings perched by the river. The sun is shining and no rain today so I sit back and enjoy a couple of beers on the terrace of the restaurant. Later dine with a Scandinavian trio then early to bed.
Lugo to Ferreira
Thursday 9th October, a steady climb out of Lugo then a breakfast of toast with local made cheese and honey at Burgo de San Vincente very nice. Then day dreaming heading out of Bacurin and missed a sign and instead of back tracking got lost, passing through very small farming villages with helpful locals who put me on the right track, only 4kms out of the way, but I did see an authentic old galician mill. Of course it started to bucket rain and the tracks turned to mud, (camino de mud and cow shit). Eventually made it to Ferreira where the hospitalero provided a communal meal of paella and salad with vino, in a restored old barn, and with some clothes washed and dried all was well.
Thursday, 9 October 2014
Castroverde to Lugo
Wednesday 8th October. In the morning my boots were so dirty I had trouble recognising them. Headed out in drizzle which turned in very heavy rain for hours, I am soaked through. The albergue is very basic no washing machine or dryer, luckily the hospitalero eventually turned on the heaters so we could get some clothes dry. The Cathedral is quite an amazing place, way over the top with elaborate altars. Lugo is an old walled roman town and between showers manage to circumnavigate the 2kms around the top of the wall, allowing an interesting view of the old town and the surrounding suburbia. Attend mass in the Cathedral to see Martin take part in the service, then dinner around the corner which becomes packed at 2200 hrs as the locals come out to dine.
Ponsagrada to Castroverde
Set off in the rain and another day of relentless climbing and burning calves with lots of slip sliding in the mud. Great views over the countryside and thankfully we walk through pine and oak forests providing protection from the wind. A great cafe at Casa Mason where by chance a lot of pilgrims stop and chat over coffee. I have caught up with the French couple I shared a room with in Oviedo. Arriving at Cadavo Baliera the albergue is closed and looks daggy, you have to telephone the hospitalero to be let in hence after tea and pintxos for lunch head for Castroverde. More relentless climbing and bucketing rain crawl into the albergue at 1630, a long day. I wonder why they provide a kitchen with no fridge and no utensils, cutlery etc? Had mass for 5 people in the albergue with Martin the polish priest in full regalia. Then dinner with the polish trio.
Grandas de Salime to Ponsagrada
Although only grade a 3/5 day it is tough going only 7 degrees had to start wearing extra clothing as it cols and very winding as we gain altitude. Then the rain sets in it was bucketing down, it becomes a slog to reach Fonsagrada my feet hurt, legs are tired, am wet and hungry. The private albergue in Oschaos is very nice but the town is bleak, I have lunch with the Polish trio and later am invited to dinner by an Italian man and German women. I find it strange that all these hill towns have restaurants specialising in octupus so far from the sea. During the night it rains heavily.
Monday, 6 October 2014
Burducedu to Grandas de Salime
Sunday 5th October.
A cool overcast morning with easy going until La Mesa and then it is 2 kms uphill gradient 15% relentless, then 10 kms on switchbacks at 10%, the only flat bit being the dam wall that I cross. Stop for a snach then it is 6 kms relentless uphill at 7% before reaching Grandas with its nice newish and large albergue, even then it is nearly full. Sunday and the church is closed, built in 1222 to cater for pilgrims, obviously not for todays modern pilgrims. Very tired after all the constant ascending and descending another rated 5/5. Chat to an american couple over dinner, they are on their first camino.
A cool overcast morning with easy going until La Mesa and then it is 2 kms uphill gradient 15% relentless, then 10 kms on switchbacks at 10%, the only flat bit being the dam wall that I cross. Stop for a snach then it is 6 kms relentless uphill at 7% before reaching Grandas with its nice newish and large albergue, even then it is nearly full. Sunday and the church is closed, built in 1222 to cater for pilgrims, obviously not for todays modern pilgrims. Very tired after all the constant ascending and descending another rated 5/5. Chat to an american couple over dinner, they are on their first camino.
Campiello to Burducedo
Saturday 4th October.
Today was a very steep climb into the mountains accompanied by a cool breeze, we pass above the snow line at 1000 meters and continue past the ruins of two pilgrim hospital dating back to the 12th century. We reach the highest point at 1230 meters with great views across the mountains, but it is very windy and cold so keep on moving. The day has a 5/5 rating for difficulty mainly I think because of the isolation. Another woman took the easy routine and got lost in the fog it so thick, eventually she was rescued by the police. Also a stomach bug is going through some of the pilgrims, luckily not me. There seems to be a lot of Polish people doing this camino, I meet 1 x trio a Priest, a linguist and the top female Polish mountaineer, an interesting combination and have dinner with them. The priest wanted to hold mass but all the churches along the route are closed. Burducedo albergue is very basic and cramped.
Today was a very steep climb into the mountains accompanied by a cool breeze, we pass above the snow line at 1000 meters and continue past the ruins of two pilgrim hospital dating back to the 12th century. We reach the highest point at 1230 meters with great views across the mountains, but it is very windy and cold so keep on moving. The day has a 5/5 rating for difficulty mainly I think because of the isolation. Another woman took the easy routine and got lost in the fog it so thick, eventually she was rescued by the police. Also a stomach bug is going through some of the pilgrims, luckily not me. There seems to be a lot of Polish people doing this camino, I meet 1 x trio a Priest, a linguist and the top female Polish mountaineer, an interesting combination and have dinner with them. The priest wanted to hold mass but all the churches along the route are closed. Burducedo albergue is very basic and cramped.
heading into the fog
Bodenaya to Campiello
Friday 3rd October. A music wake up call at 0730 followed by the usual continental breakfast. Depart at 0830 in foggy conditions with more climbing until above the clouds where the views are stunning, all very green it reminds me of Austria. The days walk is nearly all on dirt pathways with plenty of mud and cow dung along wiyh that particular sweet aroma in the air. By now most people agree that the kilometers in the guide books are light on and do not correspond with those using gps. Stop at an abandoned monastery at Obona for lunch, pity it would have been magnificent in its day. Now it going to ruin. The day is getting hot in the sun and my right ankle is giving me trouble, I will have to strap it. Arrive at Campiello albergue run by Herminia a lovely lady and a good albergue with plenty of hot water. The cena served to peregrinos is enormous, way too much food with plenty of vino tinto.
Casa Herminia in Campiello
Sunday, 5 October 2014
San Juan de Villapanada to Bodenaya
Thursday 2nd October.
Very quite everyone sleeps in until 0730. A foggy start to the day after a mixed breakfast of boiled egg, bread, tea and chocolate biscuit the later two kindly offered by Jesus from San Sebastion. A steep climb to El Fresno the day graded 4/5. Stop for the perfect desayuno at Santa Eulalia, coffee and tortilla, then off on pretty walking paths through woodlands and forest with views over lovely valleys and distant hills and rivers. In Salas came across a film crew doing a shoot on the camino, actors in long pants and jackets from standing around and only walking 20 meters, whilst the real peregrinos are in shorts and tee shirts with sweat pouring off them, needless to say they did not want us spoiling their film. Mid 20s day and humid. Chatted to 2 locals over lunch who had each walked 5 caminos but not the full distances eg Camino Portugues from Tui. Then steep switchback climb to Bodenaya. A cute place managed by Alehandro, donativo, communal meal for cena and desayuno. Alehandro also did everyones washing and put it through the dryer, luxury. Cena was a good lentil soup followed by pasta, flan including vino, a great albergue.
Very quite everyone sleeps in until 0730. A foggy start to the day after a mixed breakfast of boiled egg, bread, tea and chocolate biscuit the later two kindly offered by Jesus from San Sebastion. A steep climb to El Fresno the day graded 4/5. Stop for the perfect desayuno at Santa Eulalia, coffee and tortilla, then off on pretty walking paths through woodlands and forest with views over lovely valleys and distant hills and rivers. In Salas came across a film crew doing a shoot on the camino, actors in long pants and jackets from standing around and only walking 20 meters, whilst the real peregrinos are in shorts and tee shirts with sweat pouring off them, needless to say they did not want us spoiling their film. Mid 20s day and humid. Chatted to 2 locals over lunch who had each walked 5 caminos but not the full distances eg Camino Portugues from Tui. Then steep switchback climb to Bodenaya. A cute place managed by Alehandro, donativo, communal meal for cena and desayuno. Alehandro also did everyones washing and put it through the dryer, luxury. Cena was a good lentil soup followed by pasta, flan including vino, a great albergue.
Oviedo to San Juan de Villapanada
Wednesday 1st October.
I shared a room with a French couple who were early rises, bit I delayed departing until 0730, sunrise is now 0840 and stop at a bar not far away for coffee and croisant. The way markings are clearly defined out of Oviedo but through several kilometers of suburbia. Then into pretty countryside with lovely valleys, hills and everything is so green. So far not bad going. Lunch at Penaflora, overlooking a large river, coke and pintxos where I met Catrina an Australian living in London with her husband. She has previously worked as a tour guide for Intrepid in Japan. A steep climb out of Grado after doing some shopping as there are no facilities at San Juan so pasta and salad for cena. We arrive at 1600 hrs, San Juan is an isolated collection of 6 houses in the remote mountains. Number of peregrinos increases to 14 quite a sociable group very chatty and friendly it finally feels like being on a camino. A late night, bed at 2215 hrs.
I shared a room with a French couple who were early rises, bit I delayed departing until 0730, sunrise is now 0840 and stop at a bar not far away for coffee and croisant. The way markings are clearly defined out of Oviedo but through several kilometers of suburbia. Then into pretty countryside with lovely valleys, hills and everything is so green. So far not bad going. Lunch at Penaflora, overlooking a large river, coke and pintxos where I met Catrina an Australian living in London with her husband. She has previously worked as a tour guide for Intrepid in Japan. A steep climb out of Grado after doing some shopping as there are no facilities at San Juan so pasta and salad for cena. We arrive at 1600 hrs, San Juan is an isolated collection of 6 houses in the remote mountains. Number of peregrinos increases to 14 quite a sociable group very chatty and friendly it finally feels like being on a camino. A late night, bed at 2215 hrs.
Pola De Siero to Oviedo
Tuesday 30th september,
Overcast morning, with the way following minor roads through small villages after Colloto mainly through industrial areas into Oviedo. A 22 degree day and humid. Accompanied by John a french peregrino who will finish in Oviedo, we arrive at 1230. A lack of directions from the cathedral to albergue so eventually locate a watchmaker with a map and knowledge of the local streets. Albergue does not open until 1500 so I wander around the old part of town and find a student bar for lunch with a menu del dia for E9s good value. After checking into the albergue I visit the Cathedral museum, an amazing amount of wealth stored here. The Cathedral's main alta took 5 years to do the carvings and mouldings and then 3 years to the guilding and painting plus there are 20 minor side altas for praying at?? In the evening found a small bar with menu del dia and the opportunity to try the local fabada beans with pork and blood sausage as primero plato, a hearty meal that proved a bit windy later, on peregrino clock and it is bed at 2100 hrs.
Overcast morning, with the way following minor roads through small villages after Colloto mainly through industrial areas into Oviedo. A 22 degree day and humid. Accompanied by John a french peregrino who will finish in Oviedo, we arrive at 1230. A lack of directions from the cathedral to albergue so eventually locate a watchmaker with a map and knowledge of the local streets. Albergue does not open until 1500 so I wander around the old part of town and find a student bar for lunch with a menu del dia for E9s good value. After checking into the albergue I visit the Cathedral museum, an amazing amount of wealth stored here. The Cathedral's main alta took 5 years to do the carvings and mouldings and then 3 years to the guilding and painting plus there are 20 minor side altas for praying at?? In the evening found a small bar with menu del dia and the opportunity to try the local fabada beans with pork and blood sausage as primero plato, a hearty meal that proved a bit windy later, on peregrino clock and it is bed at 2100 hrs.
Saturday, 4 October 2014
Villavisiosa to Pola de Siero
Monday 29th September.
Sunrise is not until 0840 so a forced sleep in as no need to walk in the dark. Perfect pilgrim breakfast of coffee and warm fresh tortilla then head off at 0830, a little problem getting out of town due to some misleading arrows and some wrong directions from locals but eventually on the right route past a fountain for pilgrims in the wall of a house. The grade of difficulty is 4/5 and 28kms. The way follows minor roads, dirt tracks and scenery is very green and pretty, the day is 20C and humid so I arrive exhausted. There are a few other pilgrims along the way, Americans, Spanish and some French only 6 in the albergue tonight, along with a French John we find a great place with a menu del dia but not before 2000hrs, but a great meal. The town seems to have many Bars but only a few restaurants.
Sunrise is not until 0840 so a forced sleep in as no need to walk in the dark. Perfect pilgrim breakfast of coffee and warm fresh tortilla then head off at 0830, a little problem getting out of town due to some misleading arrows and some wrong directions from locals but eventually on the right route past a fountain for pilgrims in the wall of a house. The grade of difficulty is 4/5 and 28kms. The way follows minor roads, dirt tracks and scenery is very green and pretty, the day is 20C and humid so I arrive exhausted. There are a few other pilgrims along the way, Americans, Spanish and some French only 6 in the albergue tonight, along with a French John we find a great place with a menu del dia but not before 2000hrs, but a great meal. The town seems to have many Bars but only a few restaurants.
high level route looking down at the monastery
Madrid to Villavisciosa
A drama trying to leave Madrid via Moncloa Intercambio bus interchange on Sunday as the ticket office is closed and the only vending machine is not accepting cash and declined my credit card. Eventually I ask a lady for assistance. I ring the ALSA the bus company and they do not accept foreign credit cards, luckily she is happy to use her credit card in the machine and I pay her the cash, tickets are printing as the bus is loading to go. Scenery to Leon is flat wheat belt country with occasional vineyard. After Leon the bus passes through very dramatic mountains, The Picos Europa, quite stunning. I wait for 50 minutes in Gijon for the bus to Villavisiosa arriving at 1630. A small interesting town at least in the old part with many sidera bars, this is the apple and cider capital of Spain. A good meal in the Sidera Emporium and off to bed.
the art of pouring cider
Saturday, 27 September 2014
Saturday Madrid
I have delayed starting the camino and am still in Madrid. The hayfever I suffered back home turned into a headcold after several days in Spain and I am trying to overcome the symptoms before heading off to Villavisciosa tomorrow. Spent 5 days staying in an appartement at La Barrosa near Cadiz. It has a beautiful sandy 6km beach and was not overcrowded with tourists. A few swims, some walks and a little site seeing were done. Getting accustomed to the spanish life of lunch at 1500 dinner at 2330, thankfully the food is good and so is the vino.
A day in Cadiz plus a ferry ride across the bay to Santa Maria to visit Osborne sherry facility including generous tastings of their produce. Cadiz is an interesting old phoenecian and moorish walled town with plenty of history and close to walled villagesin the hills and nice beaches.
A day in Cadiz plus a ferry ride across the bay to Santa Maria to visit Osborne sherry facility including generous tastings of their produce. Cadiz is an interesting old phoenecian and moorish walled town with plenty of history and close to walled villagesin the hills and nice beaches.
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