Monday 13th October. A day of rest in Santiago watching the rain come down, getting a haircut and washing clothes. Planning for the second walk and hoping for some dry weather.
Monday, 13 October 2014
O'Pedrouzo to Santiago
Sunday 12th October People were getting up at 0530 so I eventually gave up and joined the the masses walking in the dark at 0715. It was not long before the drizzle settled in, however the smell of wet eucalyptus trees was nice. There were bus loads of tourists at Monte de Gozo overlooking santiago. A fast walk as I made the 20kms in under 4 hrs arriving at 1030. The pilgrim mass was packed seatting for approx 400 and it was wall to wall standing everywhere, even the number of visiting priests crowded the altar, must be the only church which can hold mass 7 days a week probably for 9 months of the year and have a packed house. The botafumiera swung to please the crowds, but I preferred the nun singing today compared to the choir yesterday. Saturday was Christobal Colon (Christopher Colombus) day hence a bit more of a carryon yesterday. I had diner with the scandinavian ladies and then watched a local group of troubadours perform in front of the catedral before a relatively late night.
Saturday, 11 October 2014
Ribadiso to O' Pedrouzo
Saturday 11th October, 0830 head out into the fog, a cool moening with great views over the misty countryside. Today is the day foe walkng through eucalypt forests with the smell of home in the air. A lot of pilgrims on the way including several large groups on organised tours. The feet are hurting so I decide on a short day of only 23kms and stop at O'Pedrouzo which has a large purpose built albergue, but the town has nothing of interest except the church which is closed of course. Bulk up on a bit more food today as I seem to be very hungry. Tomorrow the walk into Santiago, evidently it is a special national day for something.
Ferreira to Ribadiso
Friday 10th October, head off into the misty morning, sunrise now not until 0900 hrs. Once again ascend above the tree line, the sun pokes through the clouds and raises the humidity, now I can see Melide about 12kms in the distance as I head down into the valley. Melide is the Primitivo joins with the Camino Frances, so suddenly there are peregrinos everywhere. A 35km day as I reach Ribadiso an original old pilgrim hospital on the camino now refurbished. It has beautiful old stone buildings perched by the river. The sun is shining and no rain today so I sit back and enjoy a couple of beers on the terrace of the restaurant. Later dine with a Scandinavian trio then early to bed.
Lugo to Ferreira
Thursday 9th October, a steady climb out of Lugo then a breakfast of toast with local made cheese and honey at Burgo de San Vincente very nice. Then day dreaming heading out of Bacurin and missed a sign and instead of back tracking got lost, passing through very small farming villages with helpful locals who put me on the right track, only 4kms out of the way, but I did see an authentic old galician mill. Of course it started to bucket rain and the tracks turned to mud, (camino de mud and cow shit). Eventually made it to Ferreira where the hospitalero provided a communal meal of paella and salad with vino, in a restored old barn, and with some clothes washed and dried all was well.
Thursday, 9 October 2014
Castroverde to Lugo
Wednesday 8th October. In the morning my boots were so dirty I had trouble recognising them. Headed out in drizzle which turned in very heavy rain for hours, I am soaked through. The albergue is very basic no washing machine or dryer, luckily the hospitalero eventually turned on the heaters so we could get some clothes dry. The Cathedral is quite an amazing place, way over the top with elaborate altars. Lugo is an old walled roman town and between showers manage to circumnavigate the 2kms around the top of the wall, allowing an interesting view of the old town and the surrounding suburbia. Attend mass in the Cathedral to see Martin take part in the service, then dinner around the corner which becomes packed at 2200 hrs as the locals come out to dine.
Ponsagrada to Castroverde
Set off in the rain and another day of relentless climbing and burning calves with lots of slip sliding in the mud. Great views over the countryside and thankfully we walk through pine and oak forests providing protection from the wind. A great cafe at Casa Mason where by chance a lot of pilgrims stop and chat over coffee. I have caught up with the French couple I shared a room with in Oviedo. Arriving at Cadavo Baliera the albergue is closed and looks daggy, you have to telephone the hospitalero to be let in hence after tea and pintxos for lunch head for Castroverde. More relentless climbing and bucketing rain crawl into the albergue at 1630, a long day. I wonder why they provide a kitchen with no fridge and no utensils, cutlery etc? Had mass for 5 people in the albergue with Martin the polish priest in full regalia. Then dinner with the polish trio.
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